I thank you my kind and thoughtful “informers”. Sorry! Can’t seem to find a better word for readers, publicists, chefs, restaurants owners who keep me plugged into all that’s new and yummy. This week’s informer is an unusual one…the owner of an old established Maharashtrian restaurant (Aswad) in Dadar who mailed to tell me about a brand new Moghlai eatery (Step Iin) in Mahim. Thanks Suryankant!
It’s wedged into a galli opposite Paradise cinema in Mahim. It’s a small functional, grey and white boxed in eatery (fish tank et al). Waistcoated waiters with ties scurry around and serving food in steel platters. “Buffalo soldier” and such like songs play in the background.
Do you see the small metal dishes brimming over with gravies in the photograph I shot? Im here on a Sunday and so Nalli Nihari and Laal Maas are on the menu ( weekend only) While the smooth and flavorsome Nalli nihari is better than the Laal maas it’s the tender and well-marinated chicken Kalli miri tikka which comes up tops. The interesting aloo ke guthke (potatos with cheese and cream) and methi aloo are good options for veggies. Creamy Butter chicken.and okayish garam naans.
Naram dil kabab, paya, bombil, bheja…Plenty of dishes unavailable. Slow service and all this can be explained by the fact that it is a brand new eatery. But why is the biryani overspiced and lackluster? Slushy gravies mark the rest of the food and the phirni is oversweet.
This small, boxed in Mahim eatery with a bar has yet to hit it’s stride. It offers standard Moghlai fare (at Rs 1000 meal for two) and slow service. The young owner Ketan Wathare (who was John Abraham’s production house head) is all set to introduce Chinese food here soon, hopefully giving more reasons to step in to Step iin.
STEP IIN Green Lawns Building, Kapad Bazar Road, near Paradise Cinema, Mahim (W). Call 24452516
I’d go to the ends of the earth for great local food made to home-kitchen recipes and Nasik is just a comfy train ride away. Here, a surprise awaits. In the comfy, elegant Pancharatna restaurant, the talented local Bharati Navare cooks to her home-style Maharashtrian recipes in the sprawling kitchens of The Gateway Ambad hotel. Her painstakingly hand pounded masalas coax flavor and highlight textures, be it in the local Nasik specialty Muttoncha kala rassa Kombdi che suke or the vegetarian gramflour Pithla. Plump coconut infused bharli wangi too. Nina and PK Vasa, just back from their exotic European and American holiday are delighted to be here. Paramveer Singh not only ensures that the succulent kabab platter and the Wine flite (a tasting of four Nasik wines at Rs 450) are constants. For those hankering for a tasting of the local fare, Go for the homestyle Thali sampler. Ghar ka khana in five star surroundings, bit like having your puran poli and eating it too.
PANCHRATNA Gateway Ambad
Average meal for one Rs 600
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